Art GuideLos Angeles, on foot
A self-guided day on foot, from a fern-shaded canyon to Frank Lloyd Wright's Hollyhock House, with an Art Deco observatory, a Blade Runner landmark and a Mayan Revival mystery along the way.
I've been wanting to host my own Airbnb Experience for a while now. Of all the ideas I've considered, my favorite is a Los Feliz Walking Architecture Tour on L.A.'s Eastside. For now, I've reserved it for family and friends.
The full route is a pretty long walk, more of a hike really, with a steep incline and lots of steps, but 100% worth it. It doesn't have to be all or nothing, though. Pick the short stroll for an easy afternoon, or the full day if you want the whole thing.
PackBring water, good walking shoes, sun protection and a picnic for either one.
Stop 1 · 8:30 am
Start at The Trails Cafe, a lovely wooden shack, or jackrabbit homestead, nestled in the woods at the start of the Fern Dell trail near the western end of Los Feliz. If it's a hot day, go early and have a coffee or a snack under the trees before you climb.
InfoThe Trails, 2333 Fern Dell Dr. Open daily, 8 am to 5 pm. Map ↗
Stop 2 · 9:15 am
Begin your hike up to Griffith Observatory, a gem of Art Deco architecture. It's about a mile on the West Observatory Trail and gains around 550 feet, so it should take no longer than an hour.
The Observatory opened in 1935, designed by architects John C. Austin and Frederic M. Ashley, and admission is still free, as its benefactor intended. Go inside and check out the Foucault pendulum in the central rotunda, which shows the Earth turning beneath it. I also highly recommend one of the films at the Samuel Oschin Planetarium. Shows run 32 to 35 minutes, and tickets are sold only at the Observatory, for that day's shows.
Info2800 E Observatory Rd. Free. Tuesday to Friday, noon to 10 pm; Saturday and Sunday, 10 am to 10 pm; closed Mondays. Planetarium: $12 adults, $10 seniors and students, $8 kids 5 to 12. Visit info ↗
Stop 3 · 12:00 pm
Then make your way down through the Greek Theatre side. Take the East Observatory Trail, also called the Boy Scout Trail, downhill toward Vermont Canyon and the open-air amphitheater. About halfway down, a paved path branches off toward Glendower Avenue, the street Ennis House sits on.
Stop 4 · 12:45 pm
Check out Ennis House, a Frank Lloyd Wright masterpiece and Hollywood icon. Wright designed it in 1924 and finished it in 1925, building it from about 24,000 patterned concrete "textile blocks." It has appeared in more than 80 films and shows, including Blade Runner and Mulholland Drive.
It's a private home behind a high retaining wall, so you'll see it from Glendower Avenue. It's a quiet residential street, so keep your voice down.
InfoGlendower Ave. Private home; view it from the street. Map ↗
Stop 5 · 1:30 pm Short stroll starts here
Take yourself down the Los Feliz steps and head toward Sowden House, a Mayan Revival, or neo-Mayan, house by Lloyd Wright, Frank Lloyd Wright's eldest son. He built it in 1926 for the painter and photographer John Sowden. The jagged opening on its facade is said to look like a shark's open mouth, hence the nickname.
From 1945 to 1950 it belonged to Dr. George Hodel. His son Steve Hodel, a retired LAPD homicide detective, argued in his 2003 book Black Dahlia Avenger that the Black Dahlia murder happened here in January 1947. The claim has never been proven. Hodel was also friends with Man Ray. The house has creepy surrealist vibes, and you can see why Hollywood keeps coming back: it has appeared in L.A. Confidential and The Aviator.
Info5121 Franklin Ave. Private home; view it from the street. Map ↗
Stop 6 · 2:45 pm Short stroll: 2:30 pm
Finally, make your way to Barnsdall Art Park, which has a gallery, an art center and my favorite Frank Lloyd Wright house, Hollyhock House. Wright built it between 1919 and 1921 for the oil heiress Aline Barnsdall. It was his first house in Los Angeles, and her favorite flower, the hollyhock, repeats in patterns throughout. In 2019 it became the first UNESCO World Heritage Site in L.A.
Go inside. It's the best part, and it's the only house on this walk that's regularly open to visitors. Book ahead and arrive by 3:30 pm for the last entry.
The park has a gorgeous sunny meadow with an incredible view of Downtown. Bring your picnic and watch the sunset over the amazing city of Los Angeles.
Heads-upAlcohol isn't allowed in L.A. city parks, so leave the wine for later. In summer, Barnsdall holds Friday-evening wine tastings on the lawn (May to September in 2026), which are the one legal way to have a glass here.
Info4800 Hollywood Blvd. Park open daily, 6 am to 10 pm. Hollyhock House: walk-through visits Thursday to Saturday, 11 am to 4 pm (last entry 3:30); one-hour guided tours on Sundays. $12 adults, $6 seniors and students, free for under-18s with an adult. Closed Monday to Wednesday. Book a visit ↗
Don't forget to grab a smash burger at some point during the day. My go-to on this walk is Goldburger, at 1820 N Vermont Ave, a few minutes from Barnsdall. Map ↗
Take it with you
Google's walking directions follow streets, so use them to get your bearings between stops. The trails up and down the hill are signposted.
About 5 miles one way. With visits and breaks it fills a day.
No. Both are private homes, so you view them from the street.
Yes. Walk-through visits run Thursday to Saturday, 11 am to 4 pm, and guided tours run on Sundays. Book ahead.
Yes. Only the planetarium shows are ticketed, and those tickets are sold only at the Observatory, on the day.
Saturday, when the Observatory opens at 10 am and Hollyhock House is open for walk-through visits.
Who made this guide
Hi, I'm Valentina.
I'm a creative and art director in L.A. who has shaped packaging and campaigns for brands from Vita Coco to Fenty Beauty. Guides like this one are how I explore the world. If you liked the walk, you'll like the work.
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